Youth Climbing Article #5 Part 2 - Kyle Clinkscales and Team Texas

Team Texas!

In Part 1 of the Coach Kyle interview we looked at his accomplishments and his beginnings in climbing and coaching. Below is Part 2 where Kyle tells us about coaching climbing day-to-day, his involvement with USA Climbing and other organizations, and this theories about physical training, mental training, speed climbing, values, and more! Read on…

Kyle several years ago with the US Junior National Team Climbers in China. Recognize anybody in the back row? (cough Alex Puccio cough)

CFH: Thanks so much for doing this long interview for us Kyle! For Part 2, let’s start with organizations. Just how many iterations of USA Climbing have you been through?

KC: All of them! I’ve been involved since the inception of junior climbing in the US. At one point or another, I have served on the USA Climbing Coaches, Rules, and Appeals Committees as well as served on the Board of Directors.

CFH: What do you think about the coaching community in climbing and the gyms that support the big teams and coaches?

KC: I’m grateful to be a part of the coaching community. It’s too small for sure and the disparity of coaches who make a living and those that don’t is very obvious and needs improvement. The great thing about our community is that while we’re all competitive, most of us share and care about each other’s kids and what they’re doing to improve. I’m lucky that 2 of my best coaching friends, Tyson [Schoene, of Team Vertical World, see interview here - Tyson Schoene] and Claudiu [Vidulescu, USA Climbing National Team Coach] are among the most respected coaches in the country. They’ll always take my calls and give me open and honest advice on how I can improve. Believe it or not, I’m lucky I live in Dallas. I have a Nationally Ranked Top 5 Team with a great coach 10 minutes from our gym that keeps us working hard and working together. I own a climbing gym, Summit, with Stan Borodyansky, who was one of the first kids on my team. He started coaching Team Texas when he was 16 and has grown up to be one of the best coaches in the country, and currently is the US Team Speed Climbing Coach. We’re very fortunate that our team climbs in the best training gym in the country, Exposure Rock Gym, owned by Jeff Lack who cares very deeply about the team. The list goes on—what can I say, I’m a lucky guy!

Kyle and some of his kids out and about in Europe. Looks a little cold!

CFH: What are your general theories on coaching and the value of a team?

KC: Have fun, work hard, get better. I think it’s imperative for kids to be a part of something bigger than themselves.

CFH: Is there a “too young” to start climbing? Why or why not?

KC: No, as long as they’re having fun and have the maturity to understand the importance of safety.

Fun fun fun

CFH: How do you train your kids? Do you cross train them? Do you adjust your training based on age?

KC: My training is based on the number of moves I want each kid to make or learn in a given day. I pretty much do the exact same training program every week. It starts with me reminding myself and the rest of the coaching staff that no one cares how much you know until they know how much you care. Once a kid (or anyone for that matter) knows/feels that you care about them as a person more than you care about their climbing they’ll work their butts off for you and the results will take care of themselves.

CFH: Do you encourage/allow them to do multiple sports?

KC: I encourage them to make a decision as to what level they want to compete at. If they want to compete at the highest level, then they don’t have time for other sports. If they don’t, then they do.

“I dunno guys, that crimp looks pretty good from here.” Coach Kyle with the best vantage point for helping his team. Summer 2008.

CFH: What about outside climbing? Do you take your kids out? Do you allow them to project?

KC: I believe very strongly in climbing outside. We do no fewer than one outdoor climbing trip per month, which includes at least two weeks a year in Hueco Tanks and five weeks at the Red. I strongly believe outdoor climbing holds all the keys to our climbing maturity, which I believe lays the foundation to personal growth. Climbing outside teaches kids (usually the hard way) that success and failure aren’t real—they’re just words that trick our mind into believing that what we’re doing means something…obviously it doesn’t…it’s just climbing; you’re not curing cancer! In the words of Dr. Seuss: “We did it cuz it’s fun, and fun is good!”

Most days are fun, anyways…  : )

CFH: What do you think about speed climbing? Do you train kids specifically for it?

KC: I love speed climbing. I think it’s our best chance to get into the Olympics. We do train for it. My dad always told me that if they’re going to give away medals, you might as well try and win them.

CFH: Ha ha. Great advice!  And how do you coach your kids for competitions?

KC: I constantly remind them that climbing is something they do, it’s not who they are. And wanting to win is paramount, winning is irrelevant. We compete because we’re competitors; nothing more, nothing less.

Sightseeing at Junior Worlds. Sydney, Australia.

CFH: What else do you do for mental training? How important is it?

KC: Obviously you have to be physically fit, but once you reach a certain level of competency it falls on your mental skills to win championships. I try hard to develop each kid’s preparation, visualization, routine, and execution in all aspects of his or her life. The easiest, most efficient, longest lasting way to do this is with a mirror, metaphorically speaking of course. I sincerely believe in the moment when a kid realizes the fear they feel isn’t real, and that no climb or competition can define them as a person. It’s how they act before, after, and during the climb or competition that does.

In Europe, again. 

CFH: What advice do you have for kids who can’t find a good coach or who are trying to self-coach?

KC: Buy the book “The Rock Warrior’s Way” by Arlo Ilgner. Annotate. Read it again…seriously! Set a goal. Write it down and put it in your chalkbag. Remind yourself of the definition of courage…now set a million circuits. Start right now, in that order!

CFH: What advice do you have for the parents of youth climbers?

KC: If you have a good coach, let him or her coach. Be patient with the process. VOLUNTEER! It’s an awesome outlet for your competitive energies. Trust me, the example you set with your thankless work for the organization is further reaching and longer lasting than nervously sitting in a chair waiting for your child to climb and wishing other kids fall so yours wins. Go the other direction and be the change you want to see in the world! Someday your kids will thank you for it, by following in your footsteps. Present your kids with options and hold them accountable for their actions. My last and most favorite cliché - remind them that they can have anything, they just can’t have everything.

CFH: Team Texas has been a model nation-wide for a large successful youth team. How come? How did you guys evolve to where you are?

KC: Mostly I believe it’s because Team Texas is more than a team, it’s a family. I believe our greatest success is our willingness to put the greater good of the team before the individual. It’s become what I’ve always dreamed it could be…a legacy. Past and present we fight to uphold the respect, integrity, and success of our motto: have fun, work hard, get better!

CFH: Ok, last question. Spray about your kids! Successes, indoor and out, climbing related and non.

KC: I don’t really care about numbers; things I care about are if they embrace the challenge and leave behind a legacy to be followed. I’m proud that Team Texas had the first boy and girl to go all the way through the junior ranks from 11 & under to 18-19. We had the first climber to be a US Team member from 11 & under all the way through 18-19. I’m proud that two Team Texas members have been selected for the Young Gun Award. I’m proud that our parents are great ambassadors by volunteering for USAC. I’m proud that our team has traveled from one end of the country to the other climbing outside for the last 15 years…I don’t know why I’m so lucky, but I am!

Kyle and his wife Lauren looking at big rocks. Australia.

CFH: Thanks Kyle!!! 

For the rest of the Youth Coaching Article Series, click the link at the top of the page or click here: Climbfind Heroes - Youth Coaching Articles. Upcoming articles in the series will include coaches John Myrick and Emily Taylor.